How to read these profiles
Each profile is shown as a cross-section — what you'd see if you cut the workpiece in half and looked at the edge. The straight line on top is the top of the board; the curved or angled bit shape is what the router bit removes from the corner.
The width of the profile (how much material is removed) is called the cut depth or bit radius. Common sizes range from 1/16" to 1" or more. Larger profiles need more passes.
Choosing a profile by project
- Tabletops: Roundover (1/8" to 1/4") — softens the edge without changing the visual mass. Eased edge (small chamfer) is the most understated.
- Cabinet doors: Roman ogee for traditional, shaker for modern, bead for cottage style. The profile is a major design element.
- Drawer fronts: Small roundover or chamfer (1/16" to 1/8") — comfortable to grip, doesn't catch on clothes.
- Furniture edges: Depends on style. Mission/Arts & Crafts: small chamfer or square. Queen Anne: classical ogees. Mid-century: eased or roundover.
- Trim and molding: Multiple bits in sequence — roundover then cove then roundover create classical profiles.
How to cut a profile
- Set bit height with the workpiece held in position. For roundover, the bit's bearing should ride on the workpiece top.
- Take light passes. Most router bits are designed for 1/8" to 1/4" depth per pass. Going deeper causes tear-out and can break the bit.
- Feed direction matters. Always feed against the rotation of the bit (climb cutting can grab and ruin the workpiece).
- Support the workpiece. Outfeed support prevents the edge from tearing at the end of the cut.
- Use a backing board for through-profiles to reduce blowout on the exit side.
Common mistakes
- Bit too tall. The profile gets too deep, the bit can grab, the workpiece can kick back.
- Bit too short. The profile doesn't reach the full depth, leaving a square section in the corner.
- Wrong bearing size. If the bearing is too small, the bit cuts past where you expect; if too large, the profile doesn't form fully.
- Skip passes on big bits. A 1" roundover needs 4-5 passes, not 1.
Bit quality matters
The difference between a $15 router bit and a $75 one shows up in:
- Cut finish — cheap bits leave sanding scratches on the profile surface
- Edge life — carbide quality varies dramatically
- Heat resistance — cheap bits dull fast in dense wood
- Runout — the cheaper the bit, the more wobble, the rougher the cut
For profiles you'll cut once on a few pieces, budget bits are fine. For profiles you cut repeatedly (production work or your own often-repeated edge), invest in Whiteside, Freud, or Infinity bits.
Frequently asked questions
Can I get these profiles with a table-mounted router?
Yes — most profiles work the same way with a router table. You push the workpiece past the spinning bit, using the bearing as a guide. Router tables are safer for small profiles and repeated cuts.
What about hand tools?
Many profiles can be approximated with hand tools — a block plane for chamfers, a roundover plane or spokeshave for roundovers, scratch stock for complex profiles. Hand-cut profiles are slower but more controllable for one-off work.